Thursday, October 10, 2024

Halloween Willow Lane Character Dies by Scrapbook.com

Willow Lane Scrapbook.com dies pumpkin head witch fox ghost cat mummy bear

When I saw these adorable Willow Lane Halloween dies from Scrapbook.com, I just had to get them! They sell coordinating 40 sheet paper pads (6x8" and A2 size 4 1/4 x 5 1/2" - of course I bought both) as well as coordinating rub-on transfers. One die in each set will cut out it's matching rub-on character (so I bought 3 sets of rub-on and really want to get more... don't judge me!). The characters on the left (above photo) in each row are the rub-on characters, rubbed on thick white cardstock and die cut with its matching die. The other three in each row are the ones I made with the die sets. I colored them using Copic Sketch markers but any alcohol markers should work (I prefer brush tip). I actually modified how I assembled the dies so they would more closely resemble their rub-on counterparts. Each one is a little different, as befitting hand-made cards and projects.

Copyright Notice: ©Mary Dimercurio Prasad. All rights reserved. Any illegal reproduction of this content, including images, will result in immediate legal action.

Disclaimer:  Please help support my work in this small way - just use my links if you plan to purchase anything - there's no extra cost to you. Here's the official jargon: links, affiliate links, and cookies may be used in this post and on this site. Using this site implies your consent. I participate in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, Share a Sale, and other affiliate programs; these affiliate advertising programs provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to amazon.com and/or other affiliated sites. This helps offset a small portion of my crafting addiction... uh, hobby. I am truly thankful for your kind support! I also receive free products from companies, possibly monetary compensation, and sometimes free products for review. Regardless, all opinions are my own. Google and Blogger use cookies to provide and improve their services. See Notice at the bottom of this blog for a longer description and/or see the full Privacy Policy
 for even more details.

Scrapbook.com Halloween Willow Lane dies witch fox ghost cat mummy bear pumpkin head Copic alcohol markers

Making the Characters

Please read through before making. There are a lot of little details and hints to make it easier. Keep a piece of scrap cardstock to test marker colors.

There will be a lot of pieces to die cut, including some very small ones. I recommend using some sort of storage tray system to keep the pieces in while working, both to keep them organized and so they won't get lost. I used Spellbinders Craft Stax storage trays, but Scrapbook.com has similar Stack-n-Sort storage trays. Since I used alcohol markers (specifically Copic Sketch Markers) to color my pieces, I used alcohol marker friendly cardstock. Except for the base, or guide (from packaging) of each character, I chose a thinner version of cardstock since they would be layered. Here are a few recommendations that I have used; all work well for coloring and blending: Neenah Classic Crest Solar WhiteHammmermill Premium Cover, and X-Press It Blending Card. I found another by Brutus Monroe as well but I haven't tried it. You will need a Sizzix SidekickBig Shot, or other die cutting machine.

Optional: I bought the coordinating rub-ons and used them as a template for coloring my characters. I decided to make 3 of each of the 4 characters. I put the rub-ons on a thicker (less expensive) cardstock - nothing special, just wanted them to be sturdy. This is the same cardstock I used for the character guides. I used the guide dies to cut out the rub-on figures. You can see them all in the photo at the top of this post, the left-most figure in each row. These are perfect for making quick cards and projects! The rub-ons also have additional characters, cute pumpkin houses, ghosts, bats, candy, and other things.

A note about the Copic Sketch Markers I used: I didn't write them down but these should be most of the markers I used. Mainly I used all warm black markers except 00 and 10, many earth toned markers, one green - but only very little for the pumpkin stem (G99?), and a few yellow-red (YR24-27). For the fox, pumpkin head, and bear's toy, I used E09, E08, E19, and/or E18. For the bear, I used E23-29, and E55-59 (snout). To add some warmth to the cat's ghost costume, I used E50-51 in addition to the warm grays. I think I used E07 for the cat and fox cheeks, and E23 for the bear's cheeks.

1. Die cut guides from thicker cardstock; it doesn't have to be marker friendly, just something sturdy. Before cutting the very smallest pieces, mainly the noses, eyes, and ties (witch fox), I colored the cardstock before placing the dies for cutting. These would be challenging to color after. Do not cut hands and feet - it's simpler to color the guide base rather than deal with these as another step. Note: I wanted my characters to look more like the rub-ons so I did not use the eyes from the sets. Instead I cut more ties and used the pieces from inside the bow. These are very small - if you don't want to deal with them but still want the look of the rub-ons, you could use a fine tipped multiliner pen to draw them (more on this later). I also had to hand cut the snouts for all but the pumpkin head because I did not want to make use of the mouth on the die. For each character, I die cut one snout, drew around it, then fussy cut it before coloring. I did not use the cheek dies (you might notice one fox with die cut cheeks - it was the first one I made but I didn't like the look). Instead I colored cheeks on each character (except pumpkin head).

2. Die cut the rest of the pieces from alcohol friendly cardstock (listed in the first paragraph in Making the Characters). I put each character's pieces in a separate part of a tray, stacked by piece, i.e. the witch fox heads in one pile, the witch fox bodies in another pile, the hats in another pile, etc.


3. Use alcohol markers to color all the pieces - hints follow. Generally, you want marker to dry fully on the paper if you want to add a different color without blending (like the face on the treat bag above); you want to color wet-in-wet for blending.

3a. For the witch fox, color snout (bottom face) first, let dry, then add cheeks. Put dots where the cheeks will be, then make circles to match the ones on the rub-ons.  For stripes on costume, start with a lighter marker to draw lines first then use a darker marker once you have the placement the way you like. The lighter marker will be easier to push away with the blender if you make a mistake. These do not have to be perfect - once you add shading, it will look fine. Color the hat dark warm gray then add some texture by pushing away some areas with a lighter gray or blender. Add stripes with a white gel pen - I used a 05 Gelly Roll pen. Once pen dries, darken lines by lightly going over with a light gray marker (do not rub or overwork as this will remove the white pen). I didn't like the shoulder part of the cape in the same color as the fox's fur (too confusing) so I just used warm grays. Color the cape but do not add stars yet - it's easier to add them after assembly. (I actually forgot to add them on two of my foxes until after I photographed them.) Color hands and feet directly on the guide where you will assemble the character. See photo above "Making the Characters" for examples. Be careful not to go further up than where the hands/feet are. Color around the guide edges in a lighter matching color than what will go on top - this will hide any white from being seen from the side. For example, color dark warm gray where the hat will sit and light warm gray around where the striped costume will be.

Assemble witch fox on its guide in this order: cape, striped costume, cape shoulders, tied bow, treat bag, snout on head then add head, hat, hat band. Finally, use a pickup tool to place nose and eyes (use the inside bow loops for eyes, unless you plan to draw them or use the ones that came on the die). If your tool does not include a pointy end, use a die pick to move the pieces into place. I suggest using the die pick to also dot on the glue before placing.

Using a black multiliner pen (0.2mm or smaller), add lines for mouth. I used a 0.05mm Copic Multiliner SP, which is refillable and has replaceable nibs, but they also offer a disposable version. Add dots and white stars to cape using a white gel pen.


3b. To make pumpkin head, read the witch fox instructions for similarities, including coloring edges of the guide. Add white gel pen to the legs (which are colored directly on the guide, as are the hands) and gray, like witch hat. I used the black multiliner pen to draw on the nose during assembly (below). I used the die cut eyes for this character since they were the same as the rub-ons. After coloring the head and making sure it is fully dry, turn it over and use a brown marker to lightly trace the mouth. Also add some dark gray to the guide where the mouth will go, as shown in the photo further above.

Assemble pumpkin head on its guide in this order: shirt/dress, treat basket, collar, eyes and teeth on head (draw on nose now) then add head (lines up with collar exactly), stem.


3c. To make ghost cat, read the witch fox instructions for similarities, including coloring edges of the guide. Color the stripes light warm gray. Color cheeks, let dry then color around the cheeks in darker gray (see photo above). If any ink ventures inside, you can use the blender or the cheek color marker to push it back out. Color snout and other pieces. Color treat bag with light gray then once dry, add stripes in darker gray.

Assemble ghost cat on its guide in this order: sheet costume, treat basket, collar, snout on head then head on guide, finally nose and eyes like witch fox. Use black multiliner pen to draw on mouth and whiskers.


3d. To make mummy bear, read the witch fox instructions for similarities, including coloring edges of the guide. Color cheeks, let dry then color around the cheeks. If any ink ventures inside, you can use the blender or the cheek color marker to push it back out.

For bandages, start with a lighter marker to draw lines first then use a darker marker once you have the placement the way you like. The lighter marker will be easier to push away if you make a mistake. These do not have to be perfect - once you add shading, it will look fine. Add dark brown to guide where hair will fall (top of head) - the holes will show through to the guide base.

After coloring wand, let dry, then use white gel pen to draw diagonal lines and gray, like witch hat. Once moon is colored, add eye and mouth with black multiliner pen.

Assemble mummy bear on its guide in this order: body bandages, wand, moon on wand, bandages and snout on head, head on guide, finally eyes and nose like witch fox. Use black multiliner pen to draw on mouth.

If anything is unclear or you have any questions, please leave a comment! I can't wait to use these cuties on projects!

Supplies

Wednesday, October 9, 2024

Making Stamp Ephemera Using Tim Hotz Stamps

Tim Holtz Stampers Anonymous Stamp Collector VersaFine Clair

I had so much fun making these vintage looking postage stamps! I looked up vintage stamps online to get an idea of colors but there was a huge range, so pretty much any ink color will do. I chose mostly muted colors with a few exceptions. The Tim Holtz/Sizzix Postale die set comes with three dies to make postage edges. These matched most, but not all, of the Tim Holtz/Stampers Anonymous Stamp Collector set. I fussy cut around the others with a good pair of detail scissors.

These stamps are perfect for junk journals, cards, and even decorating envelopes. Please do not use them as postage, but they are perfect for hand delivering; you can even "cancel" them yourself if you have one of the many postage themed stamp sets out there (for example, Tim Holtz/Stampers Anonymous Correspondence - see the Supplies section below for more recommendations).

Copyright Notice: ©Mary Dimercurio Prasad. All rights reserved. Any illegal reproduction of this content, including images, will result in immediate legal action.

Disclaimer:  Please help support my work in this small way - just use my links if you plan to purchase anything - there's no extra cost to you. Here's the official jargon: links, affiliate links, and cookies may be used in this post and on this site. Using this site implies your consent. I participate in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, Share a Sale, and other affiliate programs; these affiliate advertising programs provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to amazon.com and/or other affiliated sites. This helps offset a small portion of my crafting addiction... uh, hobby. I am truly thankful for your kind support! I also receive free products from companies, possibly monetary compensation, and sometimes free products for review. Regardless, all opinions are my own. Google and Blogger use cookies to provide and improve their services. See Notice at the bottom of this blog for a longer description and/or see the full Privacy Policy
 for even more details.

Tim Holtz Stampers Anonymous Stamp Collector Sizzix Postale

Making the Stamps

1. Antique several sheets of high quality/premium printer paper (e.g. Hammermill Premium). I do not use cardstock for this; paper makes them feel and look more like real stamps. I antique the paper by pressing various colors of Distress Inks on a craft mat or Glass Media Mat, spraying lots of water, then dragging the paper through it. Start with a light color such as Antique Linen to cover the entire sheet. Dry with a heat tool or let air dry before continuing. If you want darker paper, use less water or use something like Vintage Photo but start with more water unless you want very dark results. To add texture, press various light brown inks (maybe 2 or 3 colors) onto craft mat again, spray with water, break up ink by running your fingers through it, then tap paper in it, moving it to different areas. I recommend starting with light colors and more water first. Dry between layers with a heat tool. Tim Holtz shows how to do this in many of his videos when creating backgrounds. Make a lot of sheets if you want many colors.

2. For optimum efficiency, I recommend mounting the entire unweeded stamp onto a stamp platform (e.g. Tim Holtz or Misti). If you have already separated the stamps, you'll need to move each stamp onto the stamp platform - be sure to leave enough room between each to cut apart and die cut later. Ink up and stamp onto antiqued paper. I recommend using VersaFine Clair inks. They have the crispest results. Note: you should use a heat tool to set the ink as it tends to dry slowly. I also used Ranger Archival Ink and Tim Holtz Distress Archival Ink to fill in colors I didn't have in VF Clair. Clean stamps with Stamp Shammy and water.

3. Cut stamp images apart, leaving room for die cutting. Fussy cut around any that don't fit in one of the dies with a good pair of detail scissors. Using a die cutting machine and Postale Dies, die cut the rest of the stamps. I like to do this in front of the TV or while listening to a podcast.

4. Optional; Use an ink blending tool and dome foam to ink edges of stamps with a brown Distress Ink.

Supplies

Tuesday, July 30, 2024

Use Scrap Strips to Make Ephemera Using Stamps and Washi

Tim Holtz Design Tape Ephemera Strip Washi

I have a hard time throwing away scraps, including strips. I even keep strips that I cut off the ends of patterned paper - you know, the white strip at the top, sometimes with a hole? Some come with a pattern that's found on the reverse side - I even keep those!

I'm working with cream and white scraps here but you could do this with light colored scraps too. If the color is too dark, the stamping or washi tape may not show up well. Use these strips to decorate cards, junk journals, scrapbooks, envelopes (I'd recommend using thinner cardstock or paper scraps for envelopes), decor, and more.

Copyright Notice: ©Mary Dimercurio Prasad. All rights reserved. Any illegal reproduction of this content, including images, will result in immediate legal action.

Disclaimer:  Please help support my work in this small way - just use my links if you plan to purchase anything - there's no extra cost to you. Here's the official jargon: links, affiliate links, and cookies may be used in this post and on this site. Using this site implies your consent. I participate in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, Share a Sale, and other affiliate programs; these affiliate advertising programs provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to amazon.com and/or other affiliated sites. This helps offset a small portion of my crafting addiction... uh, hobby. I am truly thankful for your kind support! I also receive free products from companies, possibly monetary compensation, and sometimes free products for review. Regardless, all opinions are my own. Google and Blogger use cookies to provide and improve their services. See Notice at the bottom of this blog for a longer description and/or see the full Privacy Policy
 for even more details.

Tim Holtz Distress Oxide Ink Ephemera Strips Stampers Anonymous

Making the Strips

1. Gather up your cream or white cardstock scrap strips and/or cut some strips from larger scraps or full sheets. You may also use light colored cardstock strip scraps.

2. See photo for examples. Use thin washi tapes to line edges of thicker strips. Use thicker washi tapes either by themselves or with stamps depending on the thickness of the strip and the desired look. See Supplies, below, for some of the Tim Holtz Design Tapes I used.

3. Optional: use a blending tool with sanding disk on a small cutting mat to sand off some of the surface of the washi tape. Use a soft cloth, such as a microfiber cloth, to wipe off and pick up any dust before handling. Sanding makes the tape look less shiny, makes it adhere better, and gives it an aged look. Note: I use the back side of my cutting mat so I won't sand off the lines on the front. You may want to use a dedicated mat for sanding.

4. Stamp between washi tape or stamp above/below as desired. I used VersaFine Clair Inks for their crispness. Look for small stamps to fit the space. If a stamp has two lines and you want to stamp in one line, you may either ink one half at a time or mask off one line at a time (e.g. use a Post-it to cover half while inking then remove before stamping). If you get ink in an undesired area, I recommend using a Stamp Shammy to clean off ink; I fold and use a small edge or corner for accuracy. Stamp Shammies are also excellent for cleaning your stamps before putting them away.

5. Use blending tool with a domed foam applicator and brown Distress Oxide Ink or brown Distress Ink to ink edges of each strip. I used Vintage Photo Distress Oxide Ink. You may want to do this on a Craft Mat or Glass Media Mat.

Tim Holtz VersaFine Clair Grunge Junk Journal

Hints: See the photo above; each square is 1/2". If your stamping was crooked, try stamping over with a darker ink, maybe using a seal type stamp. You may also trim down the area and separate areas by stamp. For example, I stamped "Handle With Care" twice but they were crooked so I cut around them and inked the edges to use separately. I stamped the red stripes (above the blue and red arrows) but left too much of a gap between the stamps so I added a black Air Mail seal over that area to hide the gaps. If you have very small scraps, fit very small stamps or washi (the red "Air Mail" with stripes is one stamp).

For a more distressed look, bend strip in different directions, each time sanding and/or inking the bent edge before flattening back out - see top strip with "Special Delivery" stamped down the middle and black washi tape at top. The music strip is just washi alone - the strip was very thin, I even had to trim it down to fit the paper.

Supplies
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Sunday, July 28, 2024

Use Scraps to Make Vintage Labels - Tip to Prevent Ink Beading

Tim Holtz Sizzix Vintage Labels 665929

Use your cream and white scraps to create lots of labels in different colors. Grunge them up for a more vintage look. Add adhesive to the back using a Xyron Creative Station, Xyron Creative Station LiteXyron 250 Create-A-Sticker, or Xyron 150 Create-A-Sticker if you would like to make them into stickers. I listed these in order of price (high to low), which also corresponds to size. The largest Creative Station will accept paper/cardstock up to 9 inches wide (e.g. US letter) and may also be used with 5 inch cartridges. The Creative Station Lite will accept 5" and 3" cartridges. The 250 has a 2.5" opening, and the smallest 150 has a 1.5" opening. All are refillable, but the larger machines (former two) offer more and varied cartridges, such as lamination and magnet, whereas the latter two are just for making stickers. Note: the largest Vintage Labels will not fit in the smallest sticker maker.

Labels can be used in many ways. You can stamp on them with words or numbers for a more traditional look, or stamp them with images for something different. Use rub-ons or vellum stickers on them. Use them on cards, in scrapbooks, or junk journals. Write on them to label folders, storage bins, etc. Make tabs out of them by either folding one in half or putting two of the same size/type back to back on a page or other edge so that part sticks out.

Copyright Notice: ©Mary Dimercurio Prasad. All rights reserved. Any illegal reproduction of this content, including images, will result in immediate legal action.

Disclaimer:  Please help support my work in this small way - just use my links if you plan to purchase anything - there's no extra cost to you. Here's the official jargon: links, affiliate links, and cookies may be used in this post and on this site. Using this site implies your consent. I participate in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, Share a Sale, and other affiliate programs; these affiliate advertising programs provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to amazon.com and/or other affiliated sites. This helps offset a small portion of my crafting addiction... uh, hobby. I am truly thankful for your kind support! I also receive free products from companies, possibly monetary compensation, and sometimes free products for review. Regardless, all opinions are my own. Google and Blogger use cookies to provide and improve their services. See Notice at the bottom of this blog for a longer description and/or see the full Privacy Policy
 for even more details.

Sizzix Tim Holtz Vintage Labels Ranger Archival Ink

Making the Labels

1. Gather your white card stock and cream card stock scraps. Of course you may also use full sheets but this is a great way to use up your scraps! If pieces (or sheets) are too big for your die cutting plates, you may want to cut them down to fit first. This is especially important if using a Sidekick. Note: I show how to use scrap strips in a different post.

2. Before inking your Vintage Label dies, you need to condition them or the ink will bead up, giving you poor results. See photo below. The labels on the left were inked and die cut before conditioning the dies. The labels on the right were done after (same ink, same dies). To condition the dies, use toothpaste on a cotton swab to scrub well over the raised surface of each die where ink will go. I did this back and forth around each die about a dozen or more times. A little surface metal will come off - you should see this as you rub the toothpaste. This is how it conditions the surface; it roughs up the surface on a micro level, giving the ink a place to sit without beading up. This should only have to be done once, although if not enough of the surface is roughed up, this process may need to be repeated.

Sizzix Tim Holtz Vintage Labels Ranger Archival Ink Conditioning

3. Have die cutting plates ready. One plate will be the cutting side; set this aside for the moment. Place the non-cutting side nearby so you can easily transfer inked dies to this plate when ready. Choose Vintage Label dies (or die) to fit a scrap piece of white or cream cardstock. Place these dies cutting side up on a sheet of scrap paper - I use scrap copy/cartridge/printer paper. Tap Ranger Archival Ink (or Distress Archival Ink) over surface until the flat raised areas are well covered. If the ink is still beading up too much, you may have to repeat conditioning. Be sure your ink pad is not too dry or you may not get enough ink to transfer on to the die. Once inked, carefully lift paper and slide dies onto plate, still cutting side up. You may need to slide them around in a configuration that will work with your piece of cardstock. Place cardstock carefully over dies then place cutting plate on top. Be sure nothing shifts. You may have to hold the plates in both hands as you start to feed them into your die cutting machine. If you find they move too much, you could try using washi or painters tape to temporarily tape paper to the bottom plate before placing the cutting plate on top.

Note: If you want to change ink colors, I recommend using isopropyl alcohol to clean dies. I don't recommend using stamp cleaner as any oil residue left behind may prevent ink from sticking.

4. Optional: after die cutting, ink edges of labels with Distress Ink or Distress Oxide Ink. I used Vintage Photo Distress Oxide Ink on an ink blender tool with domed foam. Note that if you do not ink the edges, some of the color of the Archival Ink that got on the blade may show a little. Adding inking around the edges helps hide this.

5. Optional: if you want to create sticker labels, put labels through a Xyron Creative Station or Sticker Maker (see other models listed in supplies, below). If you are doing multiples, you may cut them apart or leave them on the larger sheet until you want to use them. Note: you may add the adhesive to the cardstock before die cutting but I find that this wastes more adhesive and makes one side of the cardstock really slick, possibly making it more difficult when feeding into the die cutting machine.

Tim Holtz Vintage Labels Sizzix Grunge Ephemera